Urgh. You’d called it, I just didn’t know. Turns out that when I was unsuccessfully doing my testing trying to get WG up and running, I’d left the VPN (client) connection state as “Enabled” when I’d powered it down, and forgot about it. A couple of days later when I was on the road, apparently the VPN client was still “Enabled” upon booting and since the WG server wasn’t working, no traffic hit the Slate’s router-mode clients. Putting it in AP mode also bypasses the VPN, so that’s why that worked.
How I’d discovered this was the problem was this weekend I was on the road again, and couldn’t get any client connectivity when in “Repeater” mode to a hotel WiFi that needed no authentication- so I dug into the settings then ssh’ed into the Slate, and couldn’t understand why the address of my potential WG server was in the output of ip route - it dawned on me that it was blocking traffic 'till it brought up the VPN (which I get), but the VPN wouldn’t have ever come up. Once I’d turned off the VPN I could get thru, and I’ll bet that I’d’ve had no problems with the portal page last week, either.
So, maybe this should go into the “Version 3 Bugs” thread, but perhaps we should record if a VPN connection was actually successful, and to not automatically bring it up on reboot otherwise.