You have a misconception about wireless speeds. You can easily fix this by educating yourself using various sources:
- Your Wi-Fi Is Slower Than Advertised -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTWkl7afW_c - wiisfi.com
Advertised wireless speeds are the theoretical maximum PHY/link speeds over all devices and all the bands (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz for Flint 2). And the PHY speed does not translate to internet speed either, due to overhead.
And this advertised speed will NEVER exceed YOUR device's advertised speed. The router cannot magically give some cheap budget phone 3 Gbps internet.
To max out the 6 Gbps "advertised" speed you will need exactly this configuration:
- Flint 2 - 160 MHz channel on 5 GHz band, 40MHz channel on 2.4 GHz. Ensure there is no interference from other Wi-Fi routers,
- 2 Wi-Fi 6 laptops with 2x2 MIMO Wi-Fi cards, such as Intel AX210/AX211 on 5GHz band or recent flagship Android devices. Each device will get 2402 Mbps, for a total of 4802.
- 2 Wi-Fi 6 laptops, same as the above, but connected to 2.4 GHz band. Each device on 2.4 GHz will get 574 Mbps link speed/PHY, total would be 1148 Mbps.
- iperf3 servers on each of the LAN ports and iperf3 clients on each wireless client device. Command will need to be configured properly to fully saturate the link.
Why 4 devices?
The Flint 2 advertises 8 spatial streams. 4 on 5 GHz and 4 on 2.4 GHz. So, you need 2 devices using 2 streams each on each band. There are no Wi-Fi 6 consumer phones or laptops supporting 4 streams so 2 is the max.
Now, I assume you read the Wisfii page, so coming on to your issues:
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Apple devices do not support 160 MHz channels on 5 GHz at all, see this Apple article. To get above gigabit speeds on Wi-Fi, you need 160 MHz on Wi-Fi 6. So, your Apple device likely only supports 1201 Mbps max on Wi-Fi 6, NOT 4 Gbps or 6 Gbps.
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Distance matters, as with anything wireless. We don't know how close you are to the router. 1024 QAM requires you to be pretty close to the router and that's the only way you will get 2402 Mbps or 1201 Mbps. I can see based on your photo that your device is getting 648 Mbps, which means it's too far from the router to get higher speeds.
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Any older Wi-Fi 4/5 devices can slow down your entire Wi-Fi 6 network. Wi-Fi 6's efficiency relies on all devices connecting to it be Wi-Fi 6. Which is why I personally put my older Wi-Fi 4/5 devices on another older AP.
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Wi-Fi itself never will have the advertised link speed, as there is a lot of overhead. The Wisfii page explains it. If you had a non-Apple device, you could be getting up to 80% of the 2402 Mbps (~1900 Mbps) on your internet speed test if everything else is configured correctly.
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The WAN port is 2.5 Gbps max, so you will never get 3Gbps internet. The ports themselves have overhead, just like Wi-Fi, and 1GbE port actually only gets around 940 Mbps, and the 2.5GbE port gets ~2.3 Gbps max.
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Any guest networks will have a performance impact due to the router needing to advertise 2 Wi-Fi networks instead of 1. It's not major but it's still there.
Expanding on point 1:
You will never get the full 2402 Mbps on an Apple device with the Flint 2 or any other Wi-Fi 6 router, as Apple does not support 2402 Mbps unless you use the 6 GHz band on a newer Wi-Fi 6E router. Apple also didn't support Wi-Fi 6E until iPhone 15 Pro/iPhone 16/Apple M2, so most Apple devices out there have no support for 2402 Mbps over Wi-Fi.
This is purely an issue with Apple as Windows laptops have supported 2402 Mbps for 2 years+ now. Apple also doesn't support the full 574 Mbps bandwidth on 2.4 GHz when using Wi-Fi 6 (yes, Wi-Fi 6 also has 2.4 GHz band support). The maximum on Wi-Fi 6 2.4 GHz is 195 Mbps on Apple vs. 574 Mbps on Windows devices.
So, the maximum speed on Apple with 4 devices will be 2792 Mbps (2402+390) instead of 6000 Mbps with 4 Windows/Android devices. You will need to buy a much more expensive Wi-Fi 6E router (if it is available in your country at all), and likely the newest iPhones/Macs/iPads to get anywhere close to even a Gigabit on Wi-Fi on Apple.
If anyone's marketing is bad, that would be Apple - their Wi-Fi 6 support is poor compared to Windows and Android devices. Flint 2 has to follow the same marketing as all other routers on the market which advertise total speed on all bands to all devices, and it is capable of delivering speeds as close to the maximum as you can get outside of a lab.
Anyway, even if you have a Wi-Fi 6E router and the latest Apple device, the distance will still affect the link speed so you will still likely only get 648 Mbps and not 2402 Mbps.
Expanding on point 5:
ISPs offering high Gigabit speeds (2 Gbps+) usually require you to buy expensive equipment with SFP ports or 10GbE ports as consumer 1GbE or 2.5GbE is not capable of such high speeds, so your ISP's marketing is also at fault here. They definitely know that most of their users will never get 3 Gbps. Advanced users buy equipment worth hundreds of dollars to use the 10 Gbps connections offered by the select few ISPs and usually they provide a fiber line, not Ethernet.
Another thing possibly affecting bandwidth and speed is the ISP's router. If you are connected to the ISP's router (and not a simple modem or fiber media converter) - then the ISP router has to repeat a lot of the processing happening in the Flint 2 - and I have definitely seen some ISPs provide Gigabit connections with inadequate routers on their end. The solution to that issue would be bridge mode, but the 2.5 Gbps limit still applies.
I can see that you have the Home Hub 4000 which does have 10GbE, so you are fine there, but the Flint 2 is limited to 2.5GbE - you will need to buy a router with 10GbE to get the full 3Gb/s. I would suggest using Bridge Mode on the Home Hub 4000 if you do not intend to use it as a router, there are many discussions online on that, and only do it if you fully understand the implications.
Also, you will face CPU limitations if you enable any feature on the router that disables hardware offloading or requires CPU usage (default Wi-Fi and LAN does not). VPN or SQM are 2 such features. The CPU on the Flint 2 (MediaTek Filogic 830) is capable of 900 Mbps bandwidth on the CPU, if hardware offload is disabled.
Overall, internet speeds over Gigabit are for advanced users only and a lot of the current hardware is simply not ready for it. I'd suggest downgrading your internet connection to Gigabit to save some money.
I have personally achieved 1.78 Gbps over Wi-Fi 6 on a single device, which is ~75% of the 2402 Mbps link speed. I only have 2 devices capable of this.
