We will work with our supplier to design this power cable, firstly with Voltage stabilizing function, supporting 5~40V DC input and 12V output, to avoid high DC input damage Spitz AX or Puli AX. Secondly need a fuse to avoid big amp, 3A?
If you happen to have such power cable, please share the linkage to us.
It has a 5A fuse built in. I’m glad the Spitz AX accepts such a wide DC voltage range (5V - 40V), as the voltage in our RV ranges from 12V (when the coach batteries are low) to 14.8V (when the alternator is running).
5~40V, I mean whether the power cable needs to add the voltage stabilizing function, supporting 5~40V DC input and 12V output, to avoid exceeding Spitz AX DC range.
Ah, ok, thanks for the clarification. 9~36V will be fine as well in the RV. I’m not too concerned about adding voltage stabilization (e.g., adding a buck converter to the circuit). I’m assuming voltages under 9V are not a problem, and the device will simply not power on. And I’m not concerned about an over-voltage situation. If somehow that ever happens in the RV, I’ll have many more problems to worry about than just replacing the Spitz AX.
Hi guys, I´m new to this forum. I just got my Spitz AX and am planning to install it in my camper. From pics online I saw, that the power connector on the device is labeled “9 - 36V”. On my device it says “12V”. Has there been a change regarding the internal power supply? Since the voltage ranges from 11.5 to over 14 volts I don´t want to fry my unit.
If placing a 3 amp fuse on the positive wire, does it go on the output side of the DC Voltage Reducer Converter between the converter and the GL XE3000?
So based on all of the excellent suggestions from joeinternet and others I purchased the components and have temporarily wired and tested this configuration. My next step is to pull the 12V power line from the ceiling where the prewired Wingard 360 Plus that came with our RV is located and use that as the power source and finally tape up all of the connections. I'll also build a box that will mount near the Wingard port to contain, hide and secure all of these components similar to the Basecamp housing for Peplink / Wingard 360 Plus configurations. Basecamp 2.0
The Wingard power source is probably shared with lights or other components so eventually I may run directly to an open circuit in the fuse box or directly to the battery. I've included links to all of the components and a photo of the temporarily wired components.
Any and all feedback / suggestions / recommendations are most welcome.
5.5mm x 2.1 mm 90 degree DC Power Male Plug Jack to Bare Wire pigtail DC Power Plug
I don't think 3A fuse is oversized.
From GL-X3000 / Spitz AX - GL.iNet it says:
|Power Input|DC5521, 12V/2.5A (5.5*2.1mm) [default adapter] / 24V|
|Power Consumption|<14W|
I have it fused with 5A, because the TV (almost never on) is on the same wire. But only the SpitzAX should be fine with 3A.
From the form factor I would not recommend a 90° power plug. I am using a 180° plug, because it is easier to bend the cable behind the router direct to the wall mounted than the curved plug. I am in the build process, photos will follow.
LupusE - Thanks for the reply. My bag of fuses only had 2 and 3 amp fuses. I'll look for a 2.5 amp before I do my final installation. Also, good point on the 90 degree plug for GL-X3000. Even though I rarely use the battery on my GL-XE3000, the battery's thickness and my vertical wall mount configuration will make the 90 degree plug a better option in my case for hiding the power cord. I wish I had searched further for a white cord but it will be mostly out of sight anyway. I'll add a photo of the finished installation as soon as I get my RV back from the shop.
how did this work for you? going on my first trip with the spitz next weekend and hoping to just power it from the 12v outlet in the car while we are on the road…
I am using a 100Ah LiPoFe4 with one 120W solar panel on the roof.
The power use of Spitz AX is not mentionable higher than 2 adults with mobile, nintendo switch, kindle fire hd and normal living (heater, fridge, ...).
But since I got the Spitz AX, I was not longer as 2 nights at one place without land line.
I have one wired in the truck without any power regulation (only on when truck is). (This one randomly had a boot issue so it's no longer trusted). Some 12v devices pop after 13.5V (can see around 14V when starting).
I have a stripped one mounted in a pelican case that is ran off some daisy chained "talentcell" packs.
I've tried running Drok stabilizers in my pelican builds, their heatsink ones are ok but the non heatsink ones are trash.
i ordered the one in the post i replied to, should be here tomorrow. should i cancel it and get something different? i don't need hard-wired, i just need something i can plug into the 12v outlet in my tesla when we're on the road...
it seems to have good reviews and was mentioned in this thread so i figured i'd give it a shot. i have a trip next weekend that i'm trying to be ready for.
can confirm that it does. unfortunately moving the router to a new location seems to have brought back the issue i was having with SMS not coming through, but that's a different discussion.