Last Weekend I've got a SpitzAX. First I played around with the UI and tried the range at home. Nice.
But now I want to install it on my RV. And I already read the device works with 9 to 36 Volt at 2,5 A, <14W.
The good news: no DC/DC converter needed.
The bad news: my USB plugs around the RV won't work.
As I read @Tim-Zhang already offered a 1m cable with 3A fuse. Good start, but I will install it a little different.
The power block (a device in the RV which is handling if the power will come from land line, battery or solar) is under the driver's seat. The battery is next to it. Both under a pilot seat, you don't want to disassemble these if not necessary.
As I don't want the router placed 1m from any of the seats, I will go for a longer cable. The end should be above the right front seat, where the solar module and the TV reviewer already are placed...
I will try to use a fuse at the power block and a on/off switch at the routers side.
As my RV is mostly GFK instead of aluminium it shod be good enough. But as already tested with the Slate Plus/Beryl, sometimes it needs to be moved to the front or to the back of the RV for suitable Rx/Rx.
For this case I will also add a 2m extension (socket plug).
Just some ideas, photos and part list will follow if it is of interest.
USB is 5v unless you have USB-C in your RV, thus will not power the Spitz AX. But 12v/24v from the battery/converter will work as will as USB-C. Glad you found an option.
I bought a simple 12 volt "cigarette lighter" cord with the right connection.
We use it in the RV and when traveling in other vehicles.
In my 5th Wheel, we were able to use the mount for the SpitzAX and put it in a window in the upper part of the RV. This gets the router 10-11 feet above ground and the window doesn't seem to block signal. There is a 12 volt port right by the window and this works great for us.
I thought about adding an external roof mounted antenna, but so far, the included antennas work great in this location getting signal when our phones cannot.
I love being able to work remotely from the RV occasionally to extend a vacation and use less of my time off!
May I know did the router bring the power connect to the ACC or ODB interface (not cigarette lighter) of the vehicle?
When the vehicle is launching (igniting), cause to the output voltage of the vehicle is too high, probably damage the router. Please pay attention and try to disconnect the power cable when vehicle launching (igniting).
One 'starter', that will toast the Spitz at ignite, if connected directly. To be correct, not the battery will toast, more the starting process of the engine, which is generating a high peak of current during the start. 14,4V is the maximum of the battery, but not of the system during the engine start, @rsday75
The RV got a secondary battery that is not connected to this system. And will power the 'home' part of the motor home.
There is a power block, which take all power sources (Alternator, Solar, Landline) and charge the two batteries as needed. While driving at first the starter battery is charging and if it is full the energy goes to the secondary battery and maybe the fridge.
While standing there is some charging magic over solar and land line, I have not further analyzed.
This evening I will go out and measure the length of the needed cables.
A power line will go from the power block to the installing point. There I'll attach a power switch (and, if not already in the power block, a 3A fuse) and a 5.5*2.1mm male plug with 20cm cord.
I'll buy a panel, like Marine 12V Outlet – Kohree ... here I will have a physical power switch, which is very attractive. And in addition a USB charger for smart phone, nintendo switch, power bank, ... I would change the Car-Power-outlet with a second switch. Some of this panels are already fused.
I'll buy a mechanical switch and a fuse and build a little box myself.
I'll keep you posted with the progress.
I appreciate all your comments. Thanks for participate my project
Yes, my RV is a 5th wheel, so it has its own house battery system with an AC converter and solar for charging.
Both charging sources are at a max of 14.6 volts for my lithium battery bank.
The router seems to be working fine in this configuration.
Okay. Thanks for the warning. I was pleasured by the display.
Even if I know az-delivery is not the best quality. I am using a logic analyzer from this company. It works for most JTAG exposed embedded Linux bootloader. But not comparable to a Salee if you really want to analyze something unknown.
So I will keep searching for a compact, cheap (funny, a RV isn't cheap) and easy to DIY solution. And safe. It should be safe.
Since I am using the TV not very often (one or two times a year) I can use this fused 12V line.
The 'Alden SPS300' is the solar module. Interesting that it is not connected to the power block, it is direct attached to the second battery ... I think I need to talk to the manufacturer.
So I already got power at the needed place (so 1 m will be more than enough), and it is even fused ... 10A is a little too much, even if I will turn on the TV/SAT and forget about the router.
Now I just need a 3 spaces Wago, the power-switch and a 5.5*2.1mm male plug with 20cm cord. I'll order tomorrow, so I can install, test and show pictures this weekend.
It is my understanding that you can buy special USB C cables that are programmed to command 12 volts from a USB-PD power source. This is the type of cable that would work with the Spitz AX.
You are painting in very broad strokes here Happi. There are a lot of RVs out there and some even have USB-C PD ports. If you simply meant that "normal" usb C are not PD, then I might be more inclined to agree. But if you meant RVs don't have PD, I will definitely disagree as my RV does in fact have a few USB-C PD ports.
