GL-MT300N on sale now

GL-MT300N is on sale now!

With 580MHz CPU, 16MB flas, 64MB RAM and fitting to the same case as GL-AR150, it provides excellent performance while keeps a small form factor. It provide UART, 2 Ethernet, USB-A and PoE slots.

If you need just the PCB, buy the bare board with a great discount. (This one will not fit into the case!)


I have added this to the OpenWRT website with the following links:

Forum Post: OpenWrt Forum Archive

Dataentry Page: Techdata: GL.iNet GL-MT300N V1 [Old OpenWrt Wiki]

Device Page: toh:gl.inet:gl.inet_gl-mt300n_v1 [Old OpenWrt Wiki]

If you have the opportunity, the device page in particular could use some “freshening up”. If you send me some higher res photos I will upload them and add them to the pages (min 640x480; max 1280x720, max 1MB). Please send 3 minimum, outside, and interior of board both sides. I think you have my email.

Thanks. We will try to give more materials next week.

Will this product also come as a antenna-version, PoE-version and atenna+PoE-version for those who don’t like to solder or glue thing them self?

And does the USB-port of the GL-MT300N also have a GPIO to switch the power of the USB-port on and off?

Which package repository should I use to add packages to this router?


@Jeroen, yes, there will be antenna-version, PoE verion. So each product will have 4 models (Standard, Ext, Standard-PoE, Ext-PoE). I hate this very much! Please allow some time to make them available. PoE can be just soldered, but for Antenna, it should be hard-cored during production.


@unmesh59, we build our own repo. You cannot install kernel packages if you use the repo from openwrt. But you can install applications without problem. Both repo you listed above works.

Here is our repo: 404 Page not found - GL.iNet



@Jeroen, Yes, the USB power is controlled by GPIO0.

The description image of the board didn’t mention it: 404 Page not found - GL.iNet That’s why I asked for it.

I thought GPIO numbers would start with 1. So it would be GPIO1, GPIO2, GPIO3, etc. Appearantly it starts with 0 (zero) and that’s the one for the USB.


As for the different GL-MT300N versions: I can imagine it will be alot of work to maintain the different versions. Isn’t it the best to have the PoE default on the board? And do a poll for whether the antenna’s needs to be always external or not? Both can save you a lot of work I think.

PoE add cost, and most people don’t need it.

Also external antenna is welcomed for hobbyist, not businesses.

So there is no good way.

Is 2dBi antenna OK? We want to ship 2dBi to replace the 5dBi antenna, which is too long.

I don’t know that’s OK… What would be the inpact of the WiFi range?

I want to try to use the GL-AR150 with the long antenna within a big party tent on the sports field durin a yearly big sports event in my town. I’ll need a coverage as big as possible right there. I don’t know a 2 dBi will cover the whole sports field, but I don’t know this about the 5 dBi either. I’ll have to try that someway, somehow, sometime. :stuck_out_tongue:

One AR150 with a 5DBi ANT can cover about 80 to 100 meter. In your situation maybe you can try Our MESH version of AR150.With that you can cover a big area with several router.

@alzhao You mention the antenna needs to be “hard cored” Does this mean the External antenna I ordered with my MT300N router won’t fit? I thought there was a u.FL connector on the board that can be used to attach the external antenna (from the diagram)?

The MT300N on sale now is with Internal Antenna and you cannot connect external antenna without soldering. But if you have little soldering skills, you can install the antenna.

The engineering board, on the country, is with uFL connector and you need to connect antennae.

Aha, that’s a shame. The images are the same on the shop. I had imagined that it has a pcb antenna and u.FL and you just plug in the antenna if needed.

I have no problem with soldering but I guess the u.FL Antenna on the store will need to be cut to fit.

Do you have any images of the internal antenna version?

Sorry if there is confusion. We now state is clearly using text.

In this picture:[product-gallery]/3/

It is stated that for the internal antenna version, there connector is used for radio calibration, not for antennas.

Thanks for clarifying.

Is there a reason that the internal antenna version can’t have uFL as well as the pcb antenna?

My knowledge of high frequency signal electronics is lacking.

Does the the internal antenna version have a hole in the pcb for a wire antenna to be attached?

Sorry for so many questions, I’d just like to prepare the hardware I need for when my router arrives!

Also, it appears that the GPIO at the too of the board are shared with the switches on the right, is this correct?




Ahh. I am confused here too it seems…

I was also expecting I could just plug an external antenna to the uFL at will.

Does this mean there are 2 versions of the AR-150 as well? And that in some of those the uFL connector is used for radio calibration?

How could you tell the difference between any of them?

Also, what would the soldering modification involve? Presumably something that has to be done to J13?

Sorry for so many questions here too :slight_smile:


Ok, My router just arrived (very fast!).

I understand now why we can’t just plug in the cable.

The connector on the board is there, but it’s not u.FL.

The connector is a test probe connector, it passes through the connection but allows a probe to be inserted for testing, but you cannot attach an antenna to it. This is the connector on the board;

It would seem, that to connect the external antenna, you need to de-solder this connector and then solder on a u.FL. I’m not sure the effect having this connector has on the on-PCB antenna, but I suspect it would not pass-through the signal so you MUST have an external antenna connected. Perhaps alzhao can confirm?

My earlier confidence on replacing this connector has somewhat waned having received the router and realising it’s MUCH smaller than I anticipated :open_mouth: I’m going to need a much finer Soldering iron tip.

@alzhao can you please give the model name/number of the u.FL connector we need for this?

Thanks for your research Hamid. This is starting to make sense now.

I think our answer (though rather cryptically :slight_smile: lies in this earlier post I just found :

Like you, I also had virtually heated up my soldering iron to set to it but might have to squeamishly bail out now for the same reasons :open_mouth:

As Alfie already mentioned in a post earlier in this thread, we may not like that we cannot simply plug or unplug an external antenna whenever we feel like it and make it fall back to the PCB antenna. But it seems that it is not that easy to have both, from a design and engineering standpoint.

I lack too much RF knowledge as well to make any valuable comment in this matter.


No problem,

I have a background in Electronic Engineering but nothing in RF I’m afraid. The hirose datasheet for the connector we need is a bit cryptic but it appears that the connector does not pass through the signal, so once it’s soldered, the PCB antenna is no longer connected.

The only way I had imagined it working is if the hirose connector could act as a switch, and switch between the external and internal when the external connector is inserted. Again, from the datasheet this appears not to be the case, and understandably so given its size.

To leave both connected would affect the signal as it’d be leaving via two different antennas at once. I’m not sure if there’s a possibility of having two small jumper pads on the PCB letting you disconnect the PCB antenna if you wanted to connect an external, and have the u.FL conenctor there ready just in case. You’d just join them with solder to connect it back.