Hello . Can you please tell me how to change the battery? It’s good that you can replace the battery.What manufacturers do you recommend? Is it possible to install a battery of higher power but the same size?
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The battery is customzied. Difficult to change.
@alzhao Hello . Thanks for the answer . Sorry, I didn’t understand what you mean. What does customzied mean?)) That is, if my battery began to work poorly over time, I need to buy a new MUDI for $ 200 instead of just replacing the battery for $ 10?
I’m sure that the user in this post needs to tell and attach a photo or video how to change the battery.
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The problem is that, shipping a battery is so expensive.
You cannot just buy a standard battery on the market.
I don’t own the Mudi so I can’t say for sure what type of batteries are in the battery pack but often they are simply NiMH “AA” batteries connected via wires or contact strips so if you have some soldering skills when the battery pack fails you may be able to carefully slice open the blue plastic that holds the batteries together and replace them yourself by soldering in new batteries. I’ve done it several times before on other custom battery packs. Then just find some plastic type rap that you can seal around the batteries again to maintain the shape. I’ve done it before and if you use higher quality (higher capacity) batteries you wind up with a better battery pack. But I can’t tell from the picture if that pack does use “AA” type batteries or not.
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@motox22a Thank you very much for your answer and willingness to help. Just like you, I changed many different batteries on different devices and I can also do it blindly, but I would like developers or a user with real experience to write about this on the official website. So that in the future, those who were looking for an answer to this question would find it here. Now it looks like they tell me: don’t need to change the battery for $10, better buy a new device for $200))
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If the battery is no good anymore, I would probably unplug it, and power with external battery (via type c port)
@bOcy Hello . Thanks for the answer. It seems to me that this is not a very good solution, since mudi will turn into King Kong MUDI in size 
Perhaps one of the users has already changed the battery, I’m sure of it.
The situation is the same, but a lot worse, with $1000+ smartphones that have non-user-replaceable batteries. You can still replace smartphone batteries by paying $$ to repair shops, or doing it yourself if you are brave enough with the tools, skills and knowledge. I did one successfully for personal learning and amusement.
I do not work for and I am not directly associated with GL.iNet
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@wcs2228 You are right these solutions work against users. They are being forced! I do not use a phone in which the battery cannot be replaced.
And the fact that the developers here do not answer how to replace the battery makes me a little worried)) There is also an existing bug when you put the phone on charge and it turns on! Why can I work at night?))
My solution is how to change the battery in GL-E750
I want to immediately tell those who doubt their abilities, this is an elementary procedure, anyone can do it! Do not rush and do everything carefully and you will succeed! ))
Below you will see screenshots. If you have any questions please write. I did not remove the battery to the end and peel it off, as it is in excellent condition. To take it out completely, you need to peel it off and buy double-sided tape in any radio store to stick it back! You can show my photo and they will sell you such an adhesive tape.
Lets go ))
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Have you found a source for compatible replacement batteries?
It looks like you can pull up on the 2 tabs or pry up the battery to remove it, without removing the circuit board. There may be double-side tape underneath that may take some effort, but damaging the battery is not a big concern if it is already dead.
@wcs2228 Thanks for your reply . Your decision seems logical, but in practice, removing a glued battery is not always a 50/50 easy task.
These tabs often come off and you have to mechanically remove the battery, and since everything is very close, you can damage the board. Ideally, it is better for developers to think about how to solve this problem, if the opinion of their customers and users is important to them))
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I found 605065 batteries are readily available and work as replacements. The capacity is lower but at least we can replace the cells now. You do need to use the original battery board
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I am in the same process now - replacing a Mudi battery because GL chooses to offer no solution. Thankfully they will be forced to offer solutions very soon, at least in EU and several other countries.
Meanwhile, in the real world, the original battery board: is it a standard BMS or something intentionally customized such that it would be hard to replace when building a new battery pack? I am trying to replace a Mudi battery but the old battery was mistakenly sent for disposal - meaning I can’t reuse the board or connector 
I can share photos of the board if it helps. Haven't looked into if alternates are compatible.
Thank you.
I disassembled the device as part of another project (building a new enclosure for Mudi) so I have access to the PCB. Now I am in the process of making precise PCB measurements, mostly to make use of OEM PCB mounting points in the new enclosure - and refine physical heat management.
The plan is to implement a new battery as part of the new enclosure - but was complicated due to the battery management arrangement (a mini PCB inside the OEM battery pack). Alas, we finally found an old OEM supplier and, I think, were able to get past BMS obstacles.
Would have been nice to have some factory support to save time. It doesn’t matter, the result will be the same.
@bob2022 many thanks for taking the time to share pictures of the battery disassembly. Mine turned into a spicy pillow to the point it broke three cover clips.
I was already about to dispose of the battery but reading other posts, I'm planning to remove the PCB/BMS in case someday I can get a third-party battery replacement. Any advise on how to do it? The battery seems dangerously swallowed swollen and I’m concerned it might rupture.
As a side note, my experience with the Mudi, from the modem upgrade limitations to now realizing I can't get a battery replacement, has honestly made me distrust GL-Inet and their products. Running OpenWRT, supposedly being possible to upgrade or repair was what led me to buy this mobile router and spend almost 200€. In the future my intent is to avoid any GL-inet products. Maybe Mudi was too ambitious to begin with, maybe it was me that didn't fully understand what Mudi was meant to do, but not providing a way to replace the battery is against consumer rights, even if when it was released GL-inet wasn’t mandated by law to provide spare parts. At least, unlike other devices, Mudi works without a battery plugged in, I’ll give it to them.
Edit: swollen, not swallowed. My spellchecker must have taken a day off.
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We did some investigation and found:
The original battery pack used in Mudi consists of two energy cells and a compact internal PCB that handles power management and thermistor functions.
This battery pack is connected to Mudi’s main PCB via a customized wire harness using a 6-pin JST XH connector. The harness obviously carries more than energy - it includes lines for temperature sensing and battery data communication.
To build a new or higher-capacity battery pack, the following must be maintained:
- All six signal lines must be preserved to ensure power management compatibility.
- The thermistor must be retained and correctly integrated to measure and report battery temperature.
- Battery management IC must be reused or emulated.
- Battery cells must be matched and integrated with original circuitry.
The harness is a six-pin connector (JST XH-6P), 2.5mm pitch, side locking tab. Mating part - JST XH header.
Pin 1 black ground/battery negative - main ground, common ground for discharge
Pin 2 black NTC ground / sense ground - thermistor ground, or shared ground for thermistor
Pin 3 white thermistor (NTC) - battery temperature sensing
Pin 4 yellow data/clock (SDA/SCL) fuel gauge communication
Pin 5 red battery + discharge path - power output to device and USB port
Pin 6 red battery + charge path (battery charge path used separately for charge input path).
There are two positive (red) wires to facilitate discharge to USB port even while battery is charging. Also, Having dedicated wires for charge vs. load allows the BMS to: Limit charging current independently, Protect USB circuits, Monitor current flow direction, Prevent brownouts or overloads on the internal power path.
Caveat: our data may not be perfect, or I may have explained it incorrectly, so do your own research to be safe.
Given GL’s hostility toward working with the battery, we looked for (and found) one of two OEMs known too have built their Mudi battery packs - which helped a lot. If you need more detail, contact me in private.
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In the mean time I came across this post (among others!) where users shared a photo of the PCB. My battery pretty much looks like the one also shared in that post. I might not have the right tools or skills to remove the PCB, but I'll give it a try as long as I'm comfortable messing with the swollen battery. As long as the MUDI works plugged to the power adapter without a battery connected, that's fine for my use case. The same post also mentions it will work with a power bank connected, if I need to. Nevertheless I'll follow your advise and pm you for more details.
Thanks everyone that has shared their knowledge about this issue. GL-Inet doesn't seem to deserve such a dedicated community.